Catch your breath among Thailand’s leafy ‘skyscrapers’. Unclench your shoulders under the skilful hands of a masseuse. Take in the rich aromas and colours of the city’s ubiquitous markets. And sleep soundly under its starlit skies. Deborah Erwin tours this eco-holiday spot.
Unlike Bangkok and Phuket, Chiang Mai is a culture and nature centric city that offers much more than bargain-friendly shopping. Like other South East Asian hubs, it flaunts an array of fabric, pottery and silverware shops that display intricate and skilful handiwork. However, this Northern city is also steeped in a rich and well-respected spiritual tradition with as many wats (temples) as there are 7-Elevens in Hong Kong. Apart from religion, but just as devoutly venerated, is Thailand’s 82 year old king (King Bhumibol Adulyadej). Various posters of him decorate the roads, appearing about every 50 metres. Note that speaking ill of him is not only considered bad manners but sacrilegious and treason (punishable by law). Monks of all ages are also deeply revered.
Over the years, Chiang Mai has become a bustling centre, as evidenced by its thick traffic arteries, which are regularly clogged up by Vespas, Tuk-Tuks (rickshaws attached to motorbikes) and Songthaews (pick-up trucks converted into people movers). Somehow the city has avoided going down the commercial path via mass industrialisation and thus remains a pleasant getaway for urbanites. This destination’s triple lure is extreme relaxation, spiritual harmony and natural highs, easily trumping the typical beach holiday.
Eco thrill-seekers will revel in Chiang Mai’s multitude of outdoor activities which include white water rafting, treetop adventures (zip-lining), elephant trekking and caving. For those in dire need of some ‘unplugged’ days, Chiang Mai offers uber luxurious resorts and spas. To unwind, there are Thai massages, Ayurvedic treatments, facials, manicures, pedicures and even fish spas where you dunk your feet, hands or entire body into a tank of nibbling fish that feast on your dead skin. While it will prove difficult to drag yourself away from the still and paradisaic grounds of your hotel or resort, venture beyond for your personal indulgence since it is guaranteed to be a small fraction of the prices at your accommodation.
Sites for Slumber
The Chedi
The Chedi is synonymous with ‘retreat’. Its core values, as articulated through the design, service and atmosphere, are simplicity, serenity and well-being. From the street, its teak fortress exterior deviates so far from the conventional hotel that it looks more like a consulate. The four-storey building is faced with a vertical treatment of lightly stained teak laths. While outwardly austere, the site delivers a well assembled collection of open and enclosed spaces that commonly subscribe to a Zen mantra. At the heart of the four-acre plot is a two-storey colonial building skirted with wide terraces. This former British embassy may have given rise to its surrounding architecture. Adjacently situated and equally central is The Spa, held within a white monolithic block and flanked by a 35m lap pool. Troughs of tall grass insert a layer of privacy between the two areas. The hotel’s grounds are beautifully landscaped with dense grasses, native trees and feature ponds. Each of the 84 rooms is endowed with full height windows which lead onto sizeable balconies. Units maintain a clean Japanese aesthetic with solid timber doors, dark hardwood flooring, frosted glass panels and dim or diffused lighting. The Chedi does not offer a business centre – an intentional omission from its list of amenities. Instead, it has a fitness centre and Club Lounge, the latter offering a few laptops to allay one’s guilt of disappearing from the real world for a few days. The focus of this place is clearly to escape and fully indulge in some R&R. Its salubrious atmo sphere manages to naturally condition guests to walk slower and speak softly. Understand this is not a holiday spot for families or late-night partyers. As Max Ehrmann notes in his poem ‘Desiderata’: “remember what peace there may be in silence”.
Le Meridien
Footsteps away from the night market, this five-star offering entered the hospitality scene a mere eight months ago. Within its 19 storey tower are 384 rooms, two restaurants, a health club, spa and swimming pool.
For those who must mix business with pleasure, there is also 1,900 sqm of convention space. This is ideal for the nomadic professional who seeks a consistent and familiar hospitality arrangement. Its central location is especially convenient for those with only a few days in the city.
This one is off the beaten track, approximately 22 km south of Chiang Mai city. Nestled in a park, this hotel provides 36 rooms within 18 refurbished tobacco curing barns. The original brick buildings which were used to dry tobacco leaves are completely veiled with vines, allowing them to blend in with their verdant surroundings. A pool, spa and openair restaurant set within a well maintained and vibrant garden are also on offer. The hotel invites guests to sign up for its cultural programme of activities which includes temple and hill tribe visits, bamboo rafting, mountain-biking and night safaris, among others.
Spicy Bites
Don’t be fooled by the sweet and innocent smiles of the Thais. Most of Thai food is hot. Pad Thai is the exception. Spring rolls, both vegetarian and shrimp, are also safe bets if you have a sensitive digestive system. Even though you may be putting your spice threshold to the test, it’s well worth it here. Taste the green, yellow and red curries. 
Have some satay, but maybe go easy on the accompanying chili-infused peanut sauce. The fish and shrimp cakes are also a must. Often the piece de resistance are the sauces which are exquisitely calibrated for flavourful and aromatic explosions thanks to generous use of fresh ginger, lime, lemongrass, coriander and dill. Naturally, given the artful use of herbs, vegetable dishes of water cress or morning glory are also prepared perfectly, steeped in garlic. For some reprieve order a lassi, fruit shake or the ever-affordable Chang Beer. Every meal will be memorable and good to the last morsel. Even the coffee is done right. Wawee Coffee, the local caffeine purveyor, is the Thai version of Starbucks with convenient locations, comfortable lounge seating and decadent cakes. You can find good food all around town. The Gallery (25,27,29 Charernras Road) is a charming al fresco restaurant that sits right on the canal with candle-lit tables and excellent Thai fare – just make sure not to order Western dishes. The House (199 Moonmuang Road) is a romantic white table-clothed bistro with an extensive menu in a converted house set within a fragrant garden. And for those who don’t mind a no-frills dining experience, wander down the Kalare Night Bazaar (along Chang Klan Road) to taste truly authentic Thai cuisine. Among its treasures are spicy sausage, satay, Khao Soi Gai (a tender chicken drumstick immersed in a coconut curry soup with shallots, pickled cabbage and lime), banana roti and wafer rolls with a dollop of coconut cream.
Venturing Out
Flight of the Gibbon
Instead of swinging from vine to vine like Tarzan and Jane, get hitched by harnesses, clips and pulleys to go zipping along cables suspended hundreds of feet high. This arboreal course includes 11 zip lines and 3 abseils, allowing you to glide from treetop to treetop landing at platforms built around tree trunks. The longest zip line is 100 m high and spans 120 m in length. While perched on the platforms one can feel the gentle sway of the tree as its leafy crests shelter you from the intense sunlight, and one can hear the long melodious calls of neighbouring gibbons. Recent viewers of the film Avatar will notice how closely Chiang Mai’s untamed jungles resemble those of fictional Pandora’s. Zipping across verdant valleys, one is treated to a diverse landscape of tall mighty trees, dense bamboo stands and thick gangly vines that nest in big clusters of leaves. While it’s exhilarating, this treetop adventure is not half as heartstopping as bungee jumping or sky diving.
Maesa Elephant Camp
Prior to mounting the rattan saddle, an upturned basket with a bench, you first buy a bunch of bananas to reward your ride. After a few ambled strides through ankle-deep mud, the elephant halts for some advanced payment with its trunk. It will likely take you along a slushy course of treed hills stopping every so often for more fuel. After the trek, the elephants demonstrate their artistic talents by painting a canvas, using their trunks to manipulate paint brushes. The entire show is more like the open house of a primary school than a circus act – adorable and impressive.
Shopping at Nimmanhaemin Road
This strip of boutiques will be especially appreciated by the avid shopper. Here you’ll find hand-woven tapestries, paintings, silverware, celadon (local pottery) and hand-crafted jewellery and clothing. Dedicate at least half a day to this quaint district.
